Mena, Arkansas & The CIA

            Ask yourself this question; could a person be looking right at a historical artifact that played a significant, if not notorious, role in U.S. history and not realize it?

            If what that person is looking at is the Intermountain Regional Airport in Mena, Arkansas, the answer would an unqualified, “Yes.”

    Intermountain Regional Airport

Mena, Arkansas; the launch site for

weapons and drug smuggling in the

1980s that led to the Iran-Contra

scandals and investigations.

            It was from this surprisingly well-equipped airport with equally surprising long runways, infrastructure and facilities, all within the shadow of the nearby Qauchita Mountains, that, among other things, the infamous Iran-Contra gun-running operation supporting rebels in Nicaragua and a questionable front in the war on drugs was launched in the early 1980s.

            In fact, the Mena airport was specifically improved with millions of clandestine dollars flowing from the U.S. government aimed at supporting CIA and DEA missions into Central and South America.

            Companies literally sprang up overnight supporting the maintenance, conversion, modification and operations of large cargo aircraft.

            Those operations unraveled, yanked out of covert darkness into the bright light of day when, in October 1986, a twin-engined Fairchild C123K cargo plane was shot down over Nicaragua. One crew member, Eugene Hasenfus, survived, was captured and interrogated by Nicaraguan authorities. Less than a month later, the Iran-Contra scandal broke.

Barry Seal

            Rich Mountain Aviation, now defunct and once owned and operated as a CIA/DEA front by renegade pilot Barry Seal who was later convicted on federal drug and gun smuggling charges, disappeared into obscurity shortly after the 1986 machine-gun murder of Seal who was shot down in front of a Baton Rouge, Louisiana, halfway house by suspected drug cartel gunmen who were later captured and sentenced to life in prison.           

            Airplanes arrived and departed all the time. Weapons, without doubt and according to government records including records kept by Seal himself, were the main cargo of export. There’s plenty of evidence to suggest tons of cocaine came back; evidence backed up by Seal’s notes. Evidence suggests that the cocaine found its way into American society, but, actually, no one knows for sure what happened to the drugs given the secretive nature of the missions and massive cover-ups of Seal’s activities.

            As long as opposition to former and present Nicaraguan President Daniel Ortega, who had communist ties, and to the steady river of cocaine flowing out Colombia existed, Mena’s Intermountain Regional Airport was at the heart of the action.

            But, none of it was to survive the scrutiny that peeled away the operation’s layers in 1986. The Mena mission collapsed – supposedly – when the Iran-Contra scandal broke in 1986 leaving former President Ronald Reagan red-faced and former Marine Lt. Col. Oliver North as the missions’ chief architect.

            What goes on at Intermountain Regional Airport today? It’s hard to say. The locals don’t talk much about it and queries made of folks who have airplanes based at Intermountain go basically unanswered if they are acknowledged at all.

            Many believe the CIA and DEA have departed; that no interest by those agencies remains in site so publically pilloried by the media and Congress. No covert operations could possibly operate, some might tell you, out of an area so stained by such notoriety.

            But, could it? Will it?

            An interesting question to consider as one might today find oneself driving by Mena’s most notable, if not most undiscussed, public curiousity.

By Bob Howie
Copyright 2011

           

           

            

The Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, truly a "can't miss" event for boaters.

            Every year, the last weekend of October and edging into the first few days of November, the acclaimed Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show takes over the Bahia Mar Marina on Florida’s famed Highway A1A as well as three other major venues.

            If it floats – or was designed to either float or become akin to things that float – can be found at the show which is a veritable Disneyland of aquatica.

            From megayachts to rowboats – literally, right down to rowboats and even smaller – all come together for five days that turns the Fort Lauderdale beachfront into Mecca for boaters. If you can’t find it at FLIBS, well, it simply doesn’t exist in the boating world.

            But, FLIBS isn’t just for the super rich looking for the latest in water toys.

            Literally, there is something for everyone.

            Vendors’ offerings run the gamut from fishing lures to fishing rods – full-on battle sticks for the largest of the finned big-game denizens to fly rods – and all kinds of a-float and ashore décor completely covers the land-based real estate while the docks are lined with all imaginable watercraft.

            If you want to buy a boat, no problem; there’s plenty of financing options available and the same thing goes for updating your existing boat. Even if you’re just considering updating or buying, bring your questions because the answers abound at FLIBS. There’s plenty of experts who can guide you along your way; even make course corrections you might want to consider when pursuing upgrades, all the interest of both making the sale while providing you what you can afford and what best fits your application.

            Browsers are also welcome at FLIBS. You can just walk aboard most of the show’s offerings to check out the latest nautical trends, but some of the larger, more expensive rigs require an appointment while the megayachts are usually available for viewing through a broker or by invitation only.

            Your daily admission is verified by color-coded bracelets and lets you enter, exit and re-enter the show on the day for which the color is valid, but there is one word of caution…consider carefully your choice of on-site food fare while attending FLIBS.

            There is a food court offering everything from fajitas to Caribbean fare, but speaking from personal experience, opt for off-site eats. It’s safer and less likely to have you making a sudden dash for the over-used toilet trailers. Hot dogs? Well, they’re likely ok, but get them at the various refreshment barges around the show while waiting to sample more complex culinary offerings off-site.

            For a recommendation, try the H2O Café on A1A! Fabulous food and drink at very reasonable prices enjoyed al fresco with great views of swaying palm trees with the white sands of famed Fort Lauderdale Beach and the emerald waters of the Atlantic just beyond.

            Parking is always a problem with very few public parking spaces available, so try some of the city-owned lots – about $10 for the day – as well as the parking garage of Beach One Place, about $20 a day. Most are within a few blocks’ walking distance from the FLIBS entrance.

            Spending just one day at FLIBS is better than nothing, but you might want to consider at least two, if it’s your first time.

Bogota beckons as growing Latin America hot spot

I know what you’re going to think when I tell you that my travels have taken me recently to Bogota, Cali and Barranquilla in Colombia; that I must have a death wish, right?

         Well, not exactly. Charter flights have me steering a course southward out of Houston pretty regularly these days as Bogota, the main economic and industrial center of Colombia and one of the largest and fastest growing industrial centers in Latin America, continues to draw the attention of business leaders worldwide.

            Despite the bad reputation Colombia bore in the 1980s and early 1990s as rival drug cartels went to war with each other as well as the government in what almost became a coup, tourism in Bogotá has increased since the 2000s due to aggressive publicity campaigns and improvements in both infrastructure and safety.

         The Colombian government has taken firm control of the metropolitan areas and while there remains drug cartels as well as anti-government guerrillas, gone are the days when street-based shoot-outs and car bombs were common occurrences.

         International business is thriving and there is a conscientious effort under way to stuff the “bad ol’ days” deep into the history books.

         So, if you’re thinking Colombia might offer economic opportunities worth exploring, getting there is actually pretty easy with daily flights by major airlines with most routes from the U.S. covered in four to five hours.

         Bogotá's principal airport is El Dorado International Airport, west of the  city's downtown. Due to its central location in Colombia and in Latin America, the airport has become a hub for domestic and international airlines and a major air cargo center.

         But, be forwarned; El Dorado International Airport is heavily congested, handling more passengers than its optimal capacity as work on a major expansion to increase capacity from the current 8 million passengers a year to 25 million.

         In 2007 the Instituto Distrital de Turismo (District Institute of Tourism) was created with the goal of making Bogotá a sustainable tourist destination. In Bogotá, there is a wide variety of accommodation ranging from backpacker lodges and five star hotels.

         Since the 2000s huge hotel chains have been arriving to the city giving one of the most exclusive hotel services around the world. Some of the most important hotel chain are Marriott, Radison, JW Marriott, Hilton, NH Hoteles, Sheraton Hotels and Resorts and others.

         The hotels in the historical center of La Candelaria and its surrounding areas cater to lovers of culture and the arts.

         The hotels located near Ciudad Salitre are intended for visitors who make short stops in Bogotá or need proximity to El Dorado International Airport. The hotels located in the north of the city mainly cater to business visitors, or those travelers seeking shopping or pleasure.

         There are three hotels I can recommend for starters; the full-service Marriott, the Hotel Charleston Casa Medina and the Bogota Plaza, favored by flight crews. The Marriott is new and is splendid with great rooms, wonderful service and the Concierge Lounge for Marriott Rewards members is excellent. My most recent stay was at the Casa Medina which redefines 5-Star status and is surrounded by great restaurants that offer fabulous meals for extremely reasonable prices. There is also an Embassy Suites right around the corner from the Casa Medina in case the Casa Medina is fully booked.        

         A broad array of restaurants can be visited in Bogota where typical and international food can be enjoyed. The G Zone, La Candelaria and the International Centre are some of the main sectors where a number of international restaurants are found.

         Bogota has many cultural venues including 58 museums, 62 art galleries, 33 library networks, 45 stage theatres, 75 sports and attraction parks, and over 150 national monuments.

         For the shoppers amongst us, there are a number of major malls which are an aesthetic wonderland offering not only the fully array of goods and services, but venues for dining and entertainment as well.

         Bogota has established public transit, but I’d suggest either a cab or, better yet and for not much more than a cab ride, arrange for private transportation. This can be done through the hotels’ front desks and, for safety’s sake, I’d recommend it.

         Colombia’s monetary system is based on the peso, currently running about 1,900 pesos on the dollar, but the exchange range can change daily. I’d recommend exchanging about $40US at a time – that’s about 38,000 pesos – since it makes transactions a lot easier.

         While English is spoken, Spanish is the native language and knowing some Spanish if helpful while being fluent is best, of course. However, you will find Colombians a friendly, outgoing people who will take the lack of Spanish fluency in stride and make the best of it. Using what Spanish you do know, even if it is just to say, “Thank you!” goes a very long way in this Latin American city.

By Bob Howie

Copyright 2010

        

Hughes' "Spruce Goose" Lives!

While several examples of billionaire oilman Howard's Hughes aero-nautical genius continue to exist today, none probably intrigues us more than the HK-1 Hercules – known more famously as "The Spruce Goose."

            Saved from the wrecker's ball (chainsaw?) by Evergreen Aviation based in McMinnville, Oregon, the Hercules is the keystone exhibit of Evergreen's aviation museum built specifically to house the Spruce Goose.

            Evergreen obtained her in 1990 from the Aero Club of Southern California and moved her to Oregon in 1992. Over the next eight years, Evergreen and an army of volunteers lovingly restored the Spruce Goose before opening her to the public in 2001.

            McMinnville is about an hour's drive from Portland and while admission to the museum is nominal and includes lower deck, but limited access to the Spruce Goose, it'll take $50 for the VIP tour which includes access to the flight deck.

            To the aerophile, if there is something upon which $50 is well spent, it's the VIP tour!

            We know today that Hughes suffered from obsessive-compulsive disorder – easily treated today, but not so in the 1940s and 1950s – but his genius as inventor and innovator is clear as crystal when touring the Hercules.

            The flight deck's layout is clearly well ahead of its time; the instrumentation, controls, gauges and switches all laid out in a fashion that would not become common place for another 20 years.

The Spruce Goose's pilot station

            Visibility is phenomenal and to sit in the Hercules' left seat – the very seat upon which Hughes himself sat as the Spruce Goose's only-ever pilot – is sobering at best; especially to anyone a fan of Hughes.

            The flight deck is easily 14 feet wide and about 20 feet or so long leading aft to the wing's center section forward bulkhead. The center section itself, accessible through a hatch, is 11 feet 6 inches tall with additional hatches leading to the wing sections between the forward and aft spars.

            Forward of that bulkhead and leading from the flight deck cabin are catwalks through which plumbing, electrical lines and other rigging are run provides access to spaces immediately behind the massive Pratt & Whitney R4360 engines which could be worked on in flight.

            A flight engineer's panel along with engineering panels to which were run cables from sensors placed throughout the airframe feeding data to paper graphs; the computers of the day which detailed what was going on with the Spruce Goose under power.

VIP tours include the flight deck

            A telegrapher's station is also part of the flight deck compliment as part of the ground communication gear and, most surprising, two, four-cylinder Franklin aircraft engines are mounted in the aft flight deck section as auxiliary power units providing the Hercules with electricity prior to main engines start.

            It was in November 1947, after much controversy, that Hughes sailed his creation out onto the waters near what is today Long Beach Harbor with a total 32 persons on board including crew, observers, government officials and newsmen.

            Hughes didn't have government permission to actually take the airplane off, but during the taxi test, he increased speed until the Hercules came up on her step and then "accidently" took off, supposedly on its own. No one who knew Hughes ever believed it was an accident the Spruce Goose actually flew and it was Hughes at the controls when she did!

            And, among those guests who were on board; well, supposedly Norma Jean Baker, like the Hercules by another name and more famously known as Marilyn Monroe, was one of those occupying the seats.

            By the way, the Hercules' "Spruce Goose" nickname was one levied on her by the press; she's built out of Birch…ain't a stick of Spruce in her anywhere!

            Whereas Hughes' creation – the largest aircraft and largest flying boat ever built, even today – had become something of a derelict and seemed doomed to destruction, today she greats visitors to her new home where she'll live on in pristine condition for generations to come.

By Bob Howie

Copyright 2010

Escape to the Virgin Islands

            Sun-drenched islands caressed by the Trade Winds and framing the Sir Frances Drake Channel with gunkholes beckoning a memorable night's experience swinging on the hook hardly describes the adventures in paradise offered sailors visiting the British Virgin Islands.

            In fact, adjectives don't exist fully describing the pleasures of visiting these jewels of the Caribbean where the sailing is sublime and the living in oh so easy; where time no longer matters and whether day or night, dilemmas over whether to have either the lobster or cracked crab for lunch is resolved by simply having both!

            No matter whether you are an experience seafarer or first-time novice, the BVI embraces you; sailor or powerboater, there's room for all amidst the vast and varied community of yachtsmen – and yachtswomen – who gather there.

            The BVI is easily reachable from the U.S. with daily flights into the U.S. side at St. Thomas with either connecting commuter flights or the popular ferries taking you across to either Tortola or Beef Island.

            Friendly customs officials make clearing into the BVI quick and painless and a short hop by taxi – or by shuttle if you're provisioning through one of the several charter providers – and you're standing on the deck of your home for the next week within an hour of arrival.

            The Moorings, for example, bases out of its modern marina on Tortola and represents probably one of the best bareboat chartering experiences in the BVI; featuring top-notch, late model monohulls and catamarans up to 50 feet in length and providing several levels of provisioning which can save you time and money.

            Take the rest of your arrival day to check in, stow your gear and provisions, have a bon voyage dinner, do a little trip planning the night before with an early departure set as the sun rises.

            Perhaps the first day calls for an easy cruise to Jost Van Dyke and visits to the memorable Foxy's or the renowned Soggy Dollar Bar before departing back across the channel for a quiet first evening in Tortola's Cane Garden Bay.

            Picturesque Marina Cay to sample mango-ritas and conch fritters for lunch before pressing on to The Baths at Virgin Gorda with a night spent at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Club since overnighting at The Baths is not permitted.

            With the advent of GPS and waypoint development within the BVI, going to the once-forbidden island of Anegada is these days an easy cruise, but follow your charts and GPS closely because what once put Anegada on the outfitters' verboten list – treacherous shoals – are still there; just ask the 300 wrecks that have foundered on Horseshoe Reef!

            From Anegada, run south to Salt Island's Lee Bay for a scuba diving or snorkeling experience on the wreck of the RMS Rhone which foundered during a hurricane in the 1800s.

            Back track a bit to the moorings on Cooper Island for a great night's stay before perhaps moving on to The Bight on Norman Island; a must-see stop with close proximity to pristine snorkeling, casual diving and a sunset best viewed from the cockpit with rum punch in hand.

            But, this has only begun to barely scratch the surface of what is the BVI.

            White Bay, Great Harbour, Little Harbour, Diamond Cay, Sandy Cay, Green Cay, Little Jost Van Dyke, Brewer's Bay, Soper's Hole, Nanny Cay, Brandywine Bay, Maya Cove, Fat Hog's Bay, Trellis Bay, The Caves, Treasure Point, The Indians…these and so many more – some so remote as not to even have names – all await your exploration.

            A week, two weeks, maybe even a month is not enough time to visit all of what the BVI offers.

            That's why after you've visited the BVI once, don't doubt this; their siren's song will always lure you back.

- By Bob Howie

Copyright 2010          

            

Touring Manhattan; the Easy Way

            A trip to New York City doesn’t have to be complicated – or expensive – if you follow tips learned by charter pilots who go there regularly.

            First, fly into Newark’s Liberty International Airport and grab a cab or rent car. On this adventure, cabs are more efficient and head on over to Secaucus, New Jersey to either the Courtyard Marriott, Embassy Suites, Holiday Inn Express, Hampton Inn or LaQuinta hotels located in the Harmon Meadows area.

            Other than the LaQuinta which is just a short distance away, the other hotels are located right at the New York/New Jersey Transit Authority’s bus stop.

            Unlike other areas of the U.S., public transportation is clean, efficient and cheap in the New Jersey and New York area, so, for $7.30 round-trip, hop onto Line 320 bus and less than 20 minutes later, you’ll be at the main terminal on Manhattan located at 8^th Avenue and W. 42^nd.

            Walk out the front door and the New York Times office is directly across the street and a bronze statue of Jackie Gleason’s “The Honeymooners” character, New York bus driver Ralph Kramden welcomes you to New York!

            Turn right and walk six blocks to W. 34^th Avenue. At W.34^th, going straight ahead will take you to Madison Square Garden which can be seen just a block or two up on the left.

            If you are photo nut, turning right and walking down three blocks will put you at the front door of famed B&H Photo which has more than 30,000-square-feet of floor space crammed with every kind of still camera, video camera, computers, flat-panel televisions, audio gear, studio equipment, telescopes and even used camera equipment.

            Back at W. 34^th and 8^th Avenue, proceeding north up 34^th will take you past Macy’s flagship store on the way to the Empire State Building. At the Empire State, don’t miss the view from the icon’s observation decks. The view is truly amazing and the trip to the 102^nd floor is less than $35. You’ll be amazed at the feat the workers who built the Empire State accomplished in just 13 months!

            Walking south again on 34^th after your visit to the Empire State Building is complete, turn right on Broadway and continue up the Great White Way to Times Square located at 7^th and 45^th.

            Over the years, Time Square has been changed up a bit with wide pedestrian malls creating islands of humanity amidst a steady river of NYC traffic, but all the usual attractions are still intact; the brightly-lit, full-motion billboards, the building topped by the New Year’s Eve ball, hot dog (known by locals as “cart meat”) vendors and a trip to New York City wouldn’t be complete without a “slice of pie (pizza) and a coke” from one of the many Times Square vendors.

            One stop-over is actually and truly “bedazzling;” the famed Diamond District just off Times Square by way of W. 45^th. Precious metals, precious jewels, diamonds the size of marbles all await the savvy shopper and the district could be a destination unto itself.

            Located within the Diamond District at W. 49^th and 6^th Avenue is Rockefeller Center. The International Center of Photography and, if you’re a sailor, the world-renowned New York Yacht Club headquarters  are just a few blocks apart on W. 44^th between 5^th and 6^th Avenues.

            Once back up on Times Square, your choice of destinations expands with the Theater District, Hell’s Kitchen, Midtown, Murray Hill, Gramercy, Greenwich Village, Little Italy, Chinatown, Tribeca; the Financial District and the Seaport Historic District all cast an allure of their own and are within an easy cab or subway ride.

            And, if you’re inclined, the Blue Line train – which can be easily bordered at Times Square – will take you down Manhattan to the now re-opened World Trade Center station from which you stroll a short distance for a introspective view of Ground Zero.

            Making your way back to the Port Authority Bus Terminal at 8^th Avenue and W. 42^nd, hurry on down to Gate 231 and jump back aboard the 320/Harmon Meadows bus for a quick ride back to your hotel.

            Rest up; you didn’t see it all in just one day and the rest of Manhattan awaits!